Product Specification
• HAWA bamboo floor is 5/8-inch thick solid, tongue and groove, standard lengths (37-3/4” -75-3/4”) pre-finished product. It is a nailed down or glue down product.
• Nail down: Use manual-nails (L or T type), set with a specialized hardwood flooring nailing machine, using a 5/8” adapter plate over a plywood wood sub floor constructed of 5/8 inch or thicker, when installed over 16-inch center joists see detail in our installation guide.
• Glue down: Installation over concrete is possible and requires a specific method. First method, you may add a wood sub floor over it (minimum ¾ inch plywood, or sleepers wood sub-floor no exceed 12% moisture. You must add a moisture barrier system over the concrete.) Second method, you may glue the bamboo flooring directly to the concrete floor but you must test the concrete for excessive moisture. The flooring must acclimate to within 5% of the moisture content of wood in the existing structure. The sub-floor should be level to with in 1/8” in 8’. Concrete slabs should be free from sealers, adhesives residue, and any foreign matter that may inhibit board. You must keep it dry, clear and smooth. See the detail in glue down installation. Recommend use DriTac 7500 or Bostick Best glue.
• SOLID HAWA BAMBOO Pre-finished floor is not recommended over radiant heat systems.

Tools & Accessories
HAWA recommends the following tools & accessories:
• Hardwood floor nailer, Recommend T-50 series nailer. (Powernail Co.Inc).
• Rubber mallet
• Table saw, circular saw or hand saw
• Electric drill, with a 3-32-incm ( 2mm) bit
• Claw hammer and nail punch
• Square and measuring tape
• Pry bar and 5-inch (12.5 cm) putty knife
• Chalk line
• Flooring screws
• Construction paper or #15 felt floor liner
• Hardwood flooring nails, recommend 1-1/2” E cleats (Powernail Co. Inc.) Finishing nails
• Broom and dust pan
• Other pre-finished installation accessories like reducer, stair nosing, baseboard, etc are also available.

Handing
• Take good care of your precious merchandise. HAWA bamboo floor has been inspected under strict quality control standards and have been carefully packed in cardboard cartons with plastic wrapped around the flooring boards
• These cardboard cartons and plastic wrapping provide good protection for the bamboo flooring. The cartons are palletized and stored in our warehouses prior to shipping to our distributors. Each carton includes a HAWA Installation Guide, and your HAWA distributor and dealer are a phone call away for any requested installation and maintenance tips.
• Keep in mind that pre-finished bamboo floor requires a slower and more careful installation to prevent damage to the finished surface. However, once this flooring is laid, the job is done. No sanding, no staining and no finishing is required

Temperature & Humidity
• The relative humidity level in your home should be maintained at 45% (i.e. 40-50%) throughout the year.
• Bamboo floor is a living material which reacts to changes in relative humidity. It absorbs or releases humidity according to seasons. Consequently, its dimension changes.
• In summer, when humidity is at its highest, moisture is absorbed by the flooring which then expands. This expansion causes the strips of wood to push against one another. The floor is cupped or “cupping”. These variations can be minimized with proper ventilation, dehumidifying or heating.
• In winter, on the other hand, when the heating system is on, the relative humidity level in the house is much lower. The bamboo releases its moisture and consequently contracts or shrinks. It is then recommended to use a humidifier, in order to minimize extreme shrinkage effects.
• New construction or remodeling, the heating system must be operational, and the house must have been heated for at least a week at 22?c (71?F). Plastering and concrete work must be completely dry (45 to 90 days old). Check basements and under-floor crawl space to be sure they are dry and well ventilated, in order to avoid damage caused by moisture.
• Flooring should be left to acclimatize at house temperature for a period of at least 48 hours at the recommended relative humidity level.
• Using a moisture meter, available from your HAWA authorized distributor check the plywood (sub-floor) moisture content. Moisture content should not exceed 12%. If the moisture content is too high, delay the installation and turn up the heating system, increase ventilation, or remove the source of moisture and/or the plywood.
• The installer and / or purchaser/Owner have full responsibility for moisture testing to ensure that the wood sub-floor and the concrete slab (when applicable) are within acceptable limits.

Preparation
For new construction and remodeling:
• Remove baseboards and doorsills.
• Remove the old floor covering (if applicable).
• Screw the sub-floor securely the joists to prevent squeaking noises in the floor.
• Using a handsaw, cut the bottom of the door frames ¾ inch (1.9 cm) in order to slide a hardwood strip beneath.
• Make sure the floor is straight and level. Correct if necessary.
• Make sure the floor is completely dry.
• Make a sketch of the installation before hand to avoid unpleasant surprises.
• Determine the direction in which you will lay the strips. Avoid the ladder effect by installing the strips parallel to the longest length wall of the room. It is also recommended to install them in the opposite direction across the joists or, if impossible, at a 45? angle
• Determine your starting wall and/ or location
• Sweep the sub-floor clean.
• Install a #15 felt floor liner or construction paper.

Step by Step
• Using a chalk line, draw a guide line parallel at 3-inch (7.5cm) of the starting wall for the strips of 2 ¼ -inch (5.7 cm) wide, or 4-inch (10 cm) for strips of 3 ¼-inch (8.2 cm) wide, considering the ½-inch (1.3cm) minimum expansion space between the wall and the first strip, and another ¼-inch (6 mm) for the tongue. This guideline must be at a 90? angle to the adjacent wall.
• It is very important to start straight and square. Select the boards, for the first 3 rows, and lay them out on the floor in the general pattern in which they will be installed. The straightest boards should be used for these first three rows of the floor.
• Always selects your boards with care. Those with flaws must be re-cut. The more deeply colored strips should be installed where they are less visible (i.e. in a closet or under the refrigerator).
• The first rows: Lay the tongue edge of the strip on the guideline. Leaving a ½-inch (1.3 cm) minimum space for expansion between the grove edge and the starting wall. This expansion space will allow the wood to expand freely. The baseboard or molding, nailed to the wall, should cover the expansion space, once the job is done.
• The fist row must be secured to the floor using screw shank flooring nails (or finishing nails). Drill holes on the surface of the strip at 1-inch (2.5 cm) from the edge. And at approximately 12-inch (20 cm) to 16-inch (40 cm) apart. These holes will make it easier to insert the nails and to avoid damaging the strip. Next, secure the strip in place using a claw hammer and nail punch.
• The first few rows must be nailed by hand rather than with the hardwood floor nailer because of the vertical wall obstruction. When clearance allows, the hardwood floor nailer which drives 1-1/4 or 1-1/2-inch nail can be used to simplify and speed the nailing process.
• Measure and cut the strip the required length to finish the first row. The remaining section should be used to start the second row, in order to minimize the cutting waste. The strip selected for completing the first row must be long enough to yield a remaining section of adequate length. Leave ¼ inch (6mm) between the wall and the end of each strip in each row.
• Start the second row with a strip of at least 6-inch (15 cm) shorter or longer than the strip used in the first row. This will avoid aligning or clustering the end joints (illustration 5). Set the strip in place, drill a hole on the tongue edge at a 45? angle at every 8 to 10 inch (20-25 cm) apart, then using screw shank flooring nails, and secure it in place.
• The subsequent rows: The subsequent rows must be installed in the same manner. This time by using the hardwood floor nailer when you have wall obstruction clearance. Don’t be afraid to waste a few boards in order to determine the strength requested to nails, secure it in place.
• See the hardwood floor nailing tips below: Lay out 6 to 8 rows of boards ahead of work position so as to mix lengths and shades, ensuring also that the end joints are not aligned and that the floor pattern is aesthetically pleasing
• Complete nailing the working strip flooring row, before starting nailing the following row. Don’t damage what your hands have taken so much care to build. Sweep up any sawdust and bits of waste bamboo floor. Undo cardboard cartons and spread them out to protect the floor surface during al the installation.
• The last row: Again, because of vertical wall obstruction, the last 4 to 5 rows must be installed in the same manner as the first rows. The use of the hardwood floor nailer is impossible. The drill, screw shank flooring nails, hammer and nail punch will do the trick. Note: that you may have to cut the last strip along the wall. Don’t forge to leave a 3/4-inch space between the strip and the wall for expansion. Floor the last row, drill holes on the surface of the strip at approximately ¾-inch from the edge strip, nail it in place like the first row.
• Finally: Install the baseboards, wood vents and door sill. Following the initial installation, vacuum thoroughly and lightly spray HAWA bamboo floor cleaner on the terry cloth mop. Then wipe the surface clean by removing loose dirt or soil. DO NOT SPRAY DIRECTLY ON THE FLOOR. Always keep a few spare strips from your initial installation, for possible repairs.

Bamboo Floor Nailing Tips
Here are a few tips to make your job easier, should you decide to use a manual hardwood floor nailer:
• Prevent any scratches and indentations on the surface of the board by keeping the nailer plate clean, free from nicks and debris at all times. Set the nailer down on the plywood or on a piece of cardboard, not directly on the pre-finished floor.
• By adopting a standing position while using the manual nailer, you will deploy more strength when you drive the nails in. Nails that are nearly embedded can be driven in place by using a hammer and nail set.
• Hold the nailer firmly in place and hit the head of the nailer with the rubber end of the mallet.
• Make sure the nailer base is squared and sits well on the edge of the strip, to avoid damaging the edges of the strips.
• Regular inspect the hardwood floor nailer and its working condition to prevent damages to the boards.
• Pneumatic nailer: Air pressure should be adjusted adequately for each species of hardwood floor installed (always try a test or sample board to adjust preserve and check periodically.
• Always use 1-1/4 or 1-1/2 inch nail.