| Engineered
Wood Floor
| INSTALLER/OWNER
RESPONSIBILITY |
•
Beautiful engineered hardwood floors are natural material that
may reveal imperfections. HAWA engineered hardwood floors are
manufactured in accordance with accepted industry standards
which permit a defect tolerance not to exceed 5%. The defects
may be of a manufacturing or natural type.
• The installer assumes all responsibility for final inspection
of product quality. This inspection of all flooring should be
done before installation. Carefully examine flooring for color,
finished and quality before installing it. If material is not
acceptable, contact the seller immediately.
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• Prior to installation of any hardwood flooring product, the
installer must determine that the job-site environment and the sub-surfaces
involved, meet or exceed all requirements as stipulated in. HAWA engineered
hardwood floors installation instruction. HAWA engineered hardwood
floors declines any responsibility for job failure resulting for or
associated with sub-surface or job-site environment deficiencies.
• The installer/Owner of HAWA engineered hardwood has final
inspection responsibility as to grade, manufacture and factory finish.
He/She must use reasonable selectivity and hold out or cut off pieces
with glaring defects whatever the cause.
• Use of stain, filler or putty stick for defect correction
during installation should be accepted as normal procedure.
• When .HAWA engineered hardwood is ordered, 5% must be added
to the actual square footage needed for cutting allowance.
• Should an individual piece be doubtful as to grade manufacture
or factory finish, the installer should not use the piece.
• HAWA’s liability shall be solely limited to the replacement
of defective products (materials only) in excess of the 5% industry
accepted norm, excluding trimming waste allowance. HAWA shall not
in any case be liable for installer’s lack of judgment, quality
of installation, labor and installation coasts.
•
HAWA engineered hardwood floors can be installed above, on or below
grade, and are also suitable for installation over radiant heat systems.
• HAWA engineered hardwood floors may either be glued down over
plywood or concrete sub floor, or simply nailed down with cleats or
staples over plywood floor, using specially designed hardwood floor
nailer.
• Nailed down installation saves our labor and material coast,
eliminating adhesive, solvent and cleaning. It also cuts down strip
laying time and allows you to walk on our floor immediately after work
completion.
• When sued, acoustic underpayment must be glued down over sub
floor prior to gluing down strips using the sample recommended adhesive.
| INSTALLERS
ADVISE YOUR CUSTOMER OF THE FOLLOWING |
Care
and Preservation of your hardwood floors
• Building interiors are affected by two distinct Heating and
Non-Heating. Recognizing that wood floor dimensions will be slightly
affected by varying levels of humidity within your building. Care should
be taken to control humidity levels within the 35-55% range. To protect
your investment and to assure that you floors provide lasting satisfaction,
we have provided our recommendations below.
• HEATING SEASON (DRY)-Humidifier is recommended to prevent excessive
shrinkage in wood floors due to low humidity levels. Wood stoves and
electric heat tend to create very dry condition.
• NON-HEATING SEASON (HUMID, WET) –Proper humidity levels
can be maintained by use of an air conditioner, dehumidifier or by turning
on your heating system periodically during the summer months. Avoid
excessive exposure to water from tracking during periods of inclement
weather. Don’t obstruct in any way the expansion joints around
the perimeter of your floor.
• FLOOR REPAIR-Minor damage can be repaired with a Touch-Up Kit.
Major damage will require board replacement which can be done by professional
floor installer.
PRE-INSTALLATION PROCEDURES
1.
HANDLING
Pre-finished
hardwood floor installation requires a little more time and precaution
than non-finished flooring: handle with care to avoid strip surface
and finished damage.
2.
PPRE-INSTALLATION CHECK LIST------BASIC REQUIREMENTS
•
Hardwood floor installation should be the very last step of any construction
or renovation project.
• Prior to installation, heating system must be in operation,
and room temperature must have been maintained at ±72°F
(±22°C) for at least one week.
• To avoid any moisture-related damages, sub floor must be dry
and basement well ventilated.
• For below grade installation, ensure that foundations and
concrete slab are thoroughly leak proof.
• Relative humidity must be maintained around 45% (between 40%
and 60%) at all times.
• Radiant heat performance:
• The radiant heat system must have been tested and in operation
for a few weeks prior to installation.
• The surface temperature must never exceed 85°F (29°C)
• If the radiant heat pipes are visible or exposed in the sub
floor, you must cover them with 3/8” (10 mm) plywood to spread
heat more evenly.
3. SUB FLOOR MOISTURE LEVEL CHEHCK
•
Wooden sub floor: Wooden sub floor moisture reading must not exceed
12% and differential between strips and sub floor must be less than
4% . If moisture reading is too high, postpone installation, find
moisture source and correct it if needed, raise heat and increase
ventilation until proper conditions are met.
• Concreted sub floor: Prior to installation, concrete sub floor
should preferably be 45 to 90 days old, 30 days being the absolute
minimum. Concrete moisture meter must be used to check sub floor moisture
level; in case of positive reading, calcium chloride test must be
performed. Concrete sub floor moisture rate must not exceed 3lb/1000ft/24housrs;
install an approved waterproof membrane if reading exceeds 3lb but
scales less than 7 lb (for example, using an approved adhesive, you
may glue down an approved vinyl membrane over whole sub floor surface,
you may also smear Bostik’s adhesive over entire concrete floor
surface to create a skim coat moisture barrier). Never install hardwood
floor if calcium chloride test reading exceeds 7lb/1000 ft / 24 hours.
• Note: Flooring should be at the job site at least 72 hours
prior to installation (placed in installation area and cartons opened).
This will allow the flooring to acclimate to room conditions.
• Owner and installer are solely and jointly responsible for
pre-installation sub floor moisture level check and must ensure that
all conditions and/specifications listed in this guide have been thoroughly
met prior to installation of hardwood floor.
4. Sub floor preparation
•
Nailed down installation requires minimum 5/8” (16mm) plywood,
or ¾” (19mm) approved OSB chipboard subfloor, if installed
over 16” (400mm) center-to – center joist
• Sound: Wooden subfloor must be securely screwed down to joists
to prevent any movement or squeaks. Thoroughly inspect and replace existing
floor or subfloor that shows evidence of water damage or structural
weakness. Concrete subfloor must be just as structurally sound before
installing hardwood floors.
• Level: Subfloor surface must be level and maximum tolerance
is 3/16” (5mm) per 10’ (3 m). If necessary, level down any
irregularities, using #20 grit papers, and fill any uneven spots with
leveling compound.
• Dry: Subfloor must be dry and within moisture reading specs.
• Clean: Vacuum and free subfloor from any debris or obstacles
such as dried, nail heads, dried glue or any other material.
5.
Preparation
•Sketch
installation to avoid surprises
o Decide starting point or wall.
o Decide layout angle: 90° or 45°installation to joist is
recommended on wooden sub floor.
• Remove any baseboard, doorsill and old floor covering if necessary.
• Trim bottom of the doorstop with handsaw to insert strips
underneath.
• Pre-select and set aside strips that color-match best transition
moldings, stair nosing and reducers, for future installation.
| RECOMMENDED
TOOLS, MATERIAL AND ACCESSORIES |
TOOLS,
MATERIAL AND ACCESSORIES |
•Vacuum
cleaner or broom
• Scraper
• Leveling bar
• Level
• Leveling compound (optional)
• B0 grit sand paper (optional)
• Wood and/ concrete moisture meter
• Tenon saw or circular saw
• Handsaw
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•
Claw hammer
• Nail punch
• Pry bar
• Square 16”x24”
• Measuring tape
• Chalk line
• Reversing tongues (optional)
• Touch up kit
• Maintenance kit |
| Glued
down installation |
|
Nailed
down installation |
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•
Recommended adhesives:
Bostik’s urethane adhesives ( Best, Bst or EFA). Bostick’s
EFA is not recommended for installatin over radiant heat system.
Franklin 811
• Trowel recommended by adhesive manufacturer, since teeth
size is important for best strip adherence to subfloor.
• 2” (20 mm) concrete nails and 1” x3”
x8” (25mm x 75mmx 245cm) laths for first-row holding block.
• 3M blue adhesive tape or easily removable equivalent.
• 100 to 150 lb (45 to 68 kg) ound roller.
• Bostick’s Ultimate towels for hand and tool cleaning.
• Bostick’s Ultimate adhesive cleaner. |
|
Recommend
nailer and stapler:
• Primatech R-610 with “ Quick Lock” adjustment
handle, 1-1/4” (32mm) cleats and rubber mallet 1-800-363-1962
• Powernail 50C-T & G, 1-1/4” (32mm) cleats and
rubber mallet, 1-800-323-1653
• Specialized pneumatic staple, 1” (25 mm); adapter
is required for proper staple/tough adjustment.
• Power drill and 1/16” (1.5mm) bit
• Finishing nails 1-1/*2” (38 mm)
• Flooring screws. |
|
6.
GLUED DOWN INSTALLATION
Step
1: Starting point
- •
3-1/4” strip installation requires 33-3-8” chalk line
starting mark parallel to starting wall?. Working area between starting
wall and starting line, will be last floor section laid. Above measurements
account for ideal fit, so that it will not be necessary to rip-saw
finishing strip row, while allowing for required ¼”
(6mm) expansion gap.
• Holding block must be nailed down alongside starting line
inside working area to secure starting row in place.
Step
2: Adhesive application
- For
optional adhesive application, work trowel in circular motion at
45˚angle; adhesive left on floor by trowel teeth is just what
is needed. (One gallon covers about 45 ft² to 50 ft² depending
on manufacturer’s specs)
Step
3: Strip laying
- •
It is very important that installation be started straight and square.
• Carefully select strips remove imperfections and save strips
with high color variation for hidden places such as closed or under
refrigerator.
• Laying from working area, leave1/4” gap alongside
left wall which is perpendicular to starting line, prop tongue side
against holding block and press first strip down into adhesive.
• Install subsequent strips, proceeding from left to right
until ready to trim first-row end strip
• To minimize trim waste, select strip long enough for row
end, so that remaining trimmed end may be used to stat subsequent
row. Leave ¼” gap at end of each row.
• To prevent end-joint alignment effect as illustrated, first
strip of second row must be at least 6” shorter or longer
than that of first row.
• Insert tongue end into strip grove, lower strip as close
as possible to adjacent one, slide tongue into groove and press
strip down.
• Proceed the same way for subsequent rows.
- Note:
It is very important that installation be started straight and square.
• Carefully select strips remove imperfections and save strips
with high color variation for hidden places such as closed or under
refrigerator.
• Laying from working area, leave1/4” gap alongside
left wall which is perpendicular to starting line, prop tongue side
against holding block and press first strip down into adhesive.
• Install subsequent strips, proceeding from left to right
until ready to trim first-row end strip
• To minimize trim waste, select strip long enough for row
end, so that remaining trimmed end may be used to stat subsequent
row. Leave ¼” gap at end of each row.
• To prevent end-joint alignment effect as illustrated, first
strip of second row must be at least 6” shorter or longer
than that of first row.
• Insert tongue end into strip grove, lower strip as close
as possible to adjacent one, slide tongue into groove and press
strip down.
• Proceed the same way for subsequent rows.
Step
4: Accessories installation
- •
If applicable, install transition molding, stair nosing and reducers
• If applicable, reinstall baseboards and quarter round, making
sure to nail them only to walls and not to floor (to allow free
floor movement)
Step
5: Post-installation
- •
When installation is completed, vacuum floor thoroughly, spray light
mist or clean on terry cloth mop and clean floors.
• Wait 24 hours before moving furniture and appliances back
into place.
• Set a few strips aside in case of future repairs.
7.
NAILED DOWN INSTALLATION
Step
1: Starting point
- •
3-1/4” strip installation requires 33-3/8” chalk line
starting mark parallel to starting wall. Working area between
starting wall and starting line will be last floor section laid.
Above measurements account for ideal fit, so that it will not
be necessary to rip-saw finishing strip row, while allowing for
required ¼” (6mm) expansion gap.
• Holding block must be nailed down alongside starting line
inside working area to secure starting row in place.
Step
2: Strip laying
- •
It is very important that installation be started straight and
square.
• Carefully select strips remove imperfections and save
strips with high color variation for hidden places such as closed
or under refrigerator.
• Align first strip tongue side with starting line A. grooved
side facing starting wall, leave ¼” gap from right
side wall E which is perpendicular to starting line. Drill and
nail strip vertically C as close to wall as possible to hide nail
heads when baseboards and quarter rounds D are in place. Install
subsequent strips from right to left until ready to trim row end
strip.
• To minimize trim waste, select strip long enough for row
end, so that remaining trimmed end may be used to stat subsequent
row. Leave ¼” gap at end of each row E.
• To prevent end-joint alignment effect as illustrate, first
strip of second row must be at least 6” shorter or longer
than that of first row.
• Since wall proximity prohibits use of nailer, use finishing
nail approximately every 4” alongside tongue F for first
few rows, and punch nail heads down.
• Subsequent rows must be installed the same way, using
the nailer nail or staple strips every 4 to 5 “, but at
more than 2” from each strip end.
• Because of wall proximity, installation of last 4 to 5
rows is identical to installation of first few rows. You might
have to rip-saw last row of strips to leave required ¼”
gap alongside finishing wall.
- Note:
Extremely precise strip milling may require use of tapping block
for better tongue and groove fit.
Step
3: Accessories installation
- •
If applicable, install transition molding, stair nosing and reducers
• If applicable, reinstall baseboards and quarter round,
making sure to nail them only to walls and not to floor (to allow
free floor movement)
Step
4: Post-installation
- •
When installation is completed, vacuum floor thoroughly, spray
light mist or clean on terry cloth mop and clean floors.
• Set a few strips aside in case of future repairs.
NAILER
TIPS
1.
Warning
To avoid damaging strips during installation:
-
•
Ensure that nailer base plate remains clean and free from nicks
at all times
• When nailer is not being used, place on piece of plywood
or cardboard, but never directly onto floor.
• Ensure that nailer base sits flat on floor and plumb against
tongue before nailing strip down.
• Check base plate condition and proper operation of nailer
regularly.
2.
Manual Nailer
-
•
Hold nailer firmly in place and hit nailer head with rubber mallet
• Before starting installation, test and become familiar with
nailer operation, even if a few strips must be sacrificed
• Nailing power is much more effective when nailer is used
from a standing position.
3.
Pneumatic Nailerffe
- •
Set and check air pressure regularly, keeping in mind that different
hardwood species or sub floor types require specific air pressure
settings.
Warehouse Store/Showroom:
4000 Bordentown Ave., #4, Sayreville, NJ 08872, USA
Tel:1-800-699-HAWA Fax:1-800-699-8580
Email:hawabamboo@aol.com
Copyright @ HAWA Bamboo &Wood Product Corp. 2007
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